NAMI Burn-e 2 Non-Max Controller 72V 30A [2400-A Rear | 2400-B Front]

• The NAMI Burn-e 2 Non-Max Controller 72V 30A delivers 2,400 watts output (when at 80 volts).
• Suits the Burn-e 2 model (non-Max), which runs the 1000w motor, 28Ah battery introduced early 2022.

For models of Max (35Ah) and 2 Max (32Ah & 40Ah) use the 50A 4000 controller which runs 1500w motors.

• The controller's motor wire has an Integrated Water Proof Connector, Baming JH26 09F allowing for "quick disconnect".

• Naming convention (-A/B suffix on nameplate):
  • A = Rear (Main). This is the master controller. Identified by having yellow 3-pin M8 connector for convertor. Motor wire length of 570mm (including 40mm plug).
  • B = Front (Assistant). This is the slave controller. Motor wire length of 260mm (including 40mm plug).
• Typically required when replacement is needed from physical damage, water ingress, over-temp or mis-wiring. These controllers generally have pretty good reliability.

Notes:

1. Controllers are also known as ESC (Electric Speed Controller)
2. Refer to the NAMI Reference Materials page for knowledge resources including dashboard error codes.
3. A bracket is usually supplied with controller to suit the controller's housing/enclosure. It is observed there is some variance in the location of the two threaded holes that attach the controller to bracket/scooter across the two types observed:
   • Two circular cable entry points (clear/white cable grommets). Has M4 threaded holes to depth of approx 7mm length with 60mm centres (as shown in last product image).
   • One rectangular cable entry point without grommet. Has M3 threaded holes to depth of approx 4mm length and 57mm centres. It has 8 Philips screws to screw the enclosure together and two countersunk adjacent to the bracket holes which appear to support the MOSFET heatsink. Observed without heatsink fins near the two holes, has heatsinking on the nameplate side.
4. Controllers can be considered needing replacement if:
   1. Controller errors 401 (rear) & 402 (front) and also comms controller errors 301 (rear), 302 (font).
   2. Rough running.
   3. The motor wheel does not free-wheel as expected when raised above the ground (it does not spin freely) due to resistance from faulty controller. Disconnecting motor from controller allows motor free wheel confirming motor is likely OK.
   4. Low resistance on multimeter across the controllers yellow XT battery wire (indicating short, often associated with significant arcing when connected to battery).
   5. Swapping drive train by connecting the motor of the working wheel to the controller that is suspect of failing and confirming the motor is good will inform controller likely at fault.
5. These are the latest generation controllers that feature a black wire that connects the two controllers together with a gold bullet connector for earthing purposes. Typically, these newer earthed controllers need be paired with a matching front/rear controller that also has the earth wire. Co-existing an earthed with non-earthed controller will typically throw motor and/or communication failure errors. If your other (working) controller does not have an earth wire, it will likely need to be replaced for interoperability.
6. Alternative stockists: Bike Scooter City: (A Rear & B Front).