TurboBrake Electric Brake Switch Sensor (Hall) M8 & M6 (also suits Zoom)

• The electric brake hall sensor switch resides within the eScooter brake lever to detect if the rider has engaged the brake lever. The switch forms a circuit when the lever is pulled which activates brake lights, disengages throttle and in most instances engages electric braking. It is formed with an ebike plug on one end, a length of cable and a sensor which is retained with a compression nut.
• The M8 (8mm) electrical ebike plug is the most common type used on eScooters, red 3-pin male. Some of the newer models (such as those from Dragon) progressing to a smaller M6 (6mm) electrical connector. We stock three variants:
  • M8:
    • 70mm cable (total length 130mm) - as Zoom Kaabo Factory Spare.
    • 300mm cable (total length 370mm) - as TurboBrake Spare. Use as alternative to 70mm when longer length is required.
  • M6:
    • 100mm cable (total length 160mm) - as TurboBrake Spare. These are typically 40mm longer than stock observed on Dragon/Langfeite models.

• The sensor is suitable for Levers such as::
  • Zoom such as those on:
    • Kaabo models of Mantis & Wolf (M8).
    • Earlier models of Dragon Lightning (including V2), early models of The Beast and all models of Dragon Slayer (M8).
    • Non-NUTT VSETT models such as 10+ and Zero models such as 10X hydraulic versions. On these models, the electrical wiring is hard-wired (without plug/connector) to the main line. Either M6 or M8 is suitable as the connector is removed as fitment is hard-wired (soldered), connector is discarded in fitment.
  • TurboBrake, including those on eScooters that accompany callipers such as:
    • HB427-H and HB427-4M which are factory fitted on models of:
      • Teverun, including models of Blade and Fighter and the Mini variants (M8).
      • Dragon / Langfeite select (intermediate) models of the Cyclone Pro, Lightning V2 & The Beast (M8).
        Very early models had XOD XD-H800 callipers which were non-hall mechanical type like newer Logan switch.
      • Dragon / Langfeite later models including all models of Predator and Hurricane and later models of Lightning V2 and The Beast (M6).

• The mechanism uses magnetics with a two wire hall effect sensor. Typically replaced if the sensor has become problematic, whereby the switch inadvertently activates when lever is not depressed (often intermittent) and troubleshooting (see notes) fails to restore expected behaviour.

Notes:

1. Switches needs be calibrated periodically as pads wear or brakes are serviced. Calibration is performed by adjusting the compression nut where the switch cable enters the lever. If it is set too sensitive, the switch may continue to engage after the hand is released from lever which calls for it to be unscrewed so it is within appropriate threshold. There are some video's within notes - prior to adjusting or removing existing switch, ensure you backing off the grub screw that secures the connector.
2. The hall type switch uses magnetics therefore be mindful of the lever's proximity to other magnetic fields such as that from throttle. Close proximity of lever to throttle can cause unexpected signalling, usually unexpected brake switch activation. To correct this, increase distance / proximity of the throttle away from brake lever.
3. There is typically a spring at the end of the switch that holds the sensor against the compression nut. Ensure you do not have any excessive force pressing the cable as this may impact the sensor position. Push the cable into the lever against the spring, it will activate.
4. Remember you can disconnect the switch so as to isolate the switch from the scooter to determine if (or which of the two on the bar) is fault. You can also temporarily fit the switch from the other lever or check continuity with meter and check 5v is being delivered to it. Signal output of two wire IC's is via different current levels, however multi-meter on continuity mode is usually sufficient test.
5. There is no polarity applicable so for hard-wire fitting it is a simple matter of joining each of the two wires and it is best practice to have some sort of plug so you can disconnect if necessary.
6. This switch adopts the common convention used amongst nearly all eScooter makes and models being normally open. This means when lever is not engaged, the circuit is open ("off"). When engaged (pulled) the circuit closed (switch is "on"). Europeans term this as closer type, that is the circuit activates (closes) when activated.
7. This switch appears similar to that on earlier (older) the Logan levers as both have a 6.2mm diameter. The notch/key on earlier Logan type is longer and narrower than this Zoom/TurboBrake type. The Logan variant is available here.
8. M6 vs M8 size reference as measured by eSN from these switches. This handy reference shows the difference in size between M6 and M8 3-pin male plugs. Focus on the two in the middle. Often Chinese drawings somewhat overstate M8 sizes.
   
9. These videos demonstrate how to calibrate / replace a hall sensor switch, as a general guide to how these magnetic sensors work. While they are not all Zoom/Turbobrake specific, the same concepts apply. eSN recommends to work only on one side, over the course of several rides so it has bedded in prior to making changes to the other side. eSN recommends having the ebrake switch engage first (early, but not too early else unexpected engagement can occur) then as the lever is further engaged the physical pads engage. Allowing the electric brake to fully engage prior to physical brake pad engagement improves braking stability, reduces brake wear and reduces heat.
   1. Video showing replacement of switch on NAMI Klima (Logan Lever) from Epic Cycles:
      
   2. Video showing the replacement of switch on NAMI Klima (Logan Levers) from Halbknapp E-Scooter Shop:
      
   3. Video showing general calibration process on a XOD Lever from VoltiBike
      
   4. Video showing calibration from Alter Ego Electric Bikes